It was (sort of) my birthday last weekend. So an excuse for Brian and I to travel up to Scotland for a few days of climbing/walking. We got a flight up on the Thursday so we could spend as much time as possible up there. We'd actually arranged a course through Adventure Peaks to do an introduction to ice climbing.
Thursday evening - the weather was not looking promising. We'd heard various roads had shut in parts of Scotland, so it was with some trepidation that we set off not really knowing if we were going to get there or not. The flight at least was uneventful and we noted a bit of rain when picking up the car. However, as soon as we got onto the main road (A82), the full force of the storm made itself evident. Driving rain, high winds and so much lying water made for a very slow journey. There were times when the rain turned to snow which did not improve matters! Fortunately we found at the highest point on Rannock Moor, the road was very open (they'd obviously put a lot of effort into clearing the snow) and from there it was an easy(ish) down to Onich and our hotel.
The course didn't start until the Saturday, so we spent Friday wandering around the lower slopes of Ben Nevis. After struggling up the footpath, we came to a group in front who were climbing up with crampons and ice axes and making very slow progress through the very soft snow. So we called a halt and came back down - but not before messing about trying to make a snow hole and almost burying ourselves! All fun but didn't want to do too much before the course started.
On the Saturday, we met our guide, Chris Dale - we made our way to Glencoe (via an outdoor shop in Fort William) and the start of the climb up Gear Aonoch which was a fairly steep climb up to the top which involved a single pitch (where you need ropes) up a steep slope of loose snow, rock and heather. We learnt about some aspects of causes of avalanches - and how to dig out a snow block to test it's stability. It was actually very unstable as so much had fallen in such a short amount of time.
We learnt some new terms:
Sastrugi - wind sculpted snow
Graupel - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graupel
A very good introduction to snow, rock and ice climbing! Chris turned out to proper character - so much mountain experience and knowledge - and smoked like a chimney but still able to stride up and down mountains with amiable ease. He had so many tales of mountain exploits - some of which may have become slightly embellished over the years - but they were great to listen to! Just what you want from a mountain guide.
The Sunday was an amazing day – we went up the Dragon’s Tooth, the crux of which is a very narrow, exposed ridge. We had very little time (as flying back in the evening) so after parking up at about 8.30 we had a long hike through thick snow (fortunately other people had carved a path through the snow) which followed some forestry roads and then into a very steep but stunning wood where the ice had clung to the trees creating an amazing effect – it was almost something you’d expect in Narnia. Then it was up and up toward the ridge where it got ever steeper; crampons definitely needed! At one point we both got lowered (at the same time) down a vertical cliff using an Alpine rope technique. Getting to the summit was spectacular – just like you’d expect reaching a ‘real’ mountain with 360degree view and being completely white, except for a few exposed rocks. Then it was back down the mountain, back through the "Narnia" forest.
Then we had the long drive back to Glasgow and the Easyjet flight.
